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Learning how to clean suede shoes can be tricky. Unlike canvas (which is generally quite hard-wearing and able to shrug off harsh products) and leather (which can be wiped clean most of the time), suede is absorbent and soft and sensitive. And when it gets dirty, it can be a real pain in the ass to spruce up again. Shoe Shine Sponge
But that hasn't stopped guys from wearing it, and it shouldn't, either. It's a genuinely beautiful material that ages well and lasts a very long time. Plus, while learning how to clean suede shoes can be a bit of an uphill battle at first, that doesn't mean it's impossible. So we sat down with Vinnie Tao, founder of shoe care boutique Sneaker Pharm, to tell us what to do (and what not to do) if you want to clean them properly.
Since he started Sneaker Pharm back in 2019, Vinnie Tao has worked on thousands of different shoe types from hundreds of different brands. Chelsea boots, derbies, Oxfords, loafers, trainers – you name it. And through his years of experience, he's realised one thing: learning how to clean suede shoes isn't as scary as you might think. But before you get your hands dirty, the first thing that you need to do is understand where the problem is actually coming from.
“Before your begin, try and identify the problem areas and figure out the causes of the stains,” says Tao. “You should also note what colours you're working with and what other materials are on the shoe itself. This is a vital step.”
Now that you've done that, take a deep breath and have a sip of water. Once you're feeling pretty chill and centred and zen, find somewhere suitable that you can set up your workstation. Make sure it's nice and clean and preferably on a flat surface.
“Secure a spare sink or a table with a baking tray,” says Tao. “Remove the laces and insert some shoe trees to help them maintain their shape. Shoe trees are absolutely essential. Not only do they give you something to brush against when cleaning, they also wick sweat and remove any odours when you're not wearing them. I prefer shoe trees made from cedar, but that's just me.”
Ready for go? Great! Grab yourself a soft bristle brush. If you can't find one of these anywhere, a toothbrush will work as well. It seems obvious, but make sure it's new and unused, otherwise things can get a little gnarly.
“Gently brush the surface of the suede in a circular motion,” says Tao. “The goal here is to agitate the tiny hairs so that they begin moving freely again, and remove any excess dirt that's trapped between the follicles. Do this until you start seeing a change in colour. It will become light when brushed one way and dark the other. It's important that you don't press too hard.”
Sure, you don't have to use a dry eraser for all suede shoes. But if your pair is particularly matted or soiled or they have a texture that looks a bit like shiny carpet, we honestly wouldn't skip this step.
“When the suede is so compacted that the follicles can no longer move freely, you need to stop what you're doing and equip yourself with a dry eraser,” says Tao. “Don't go too heavy during this stage, as you can damage the suede even more. The goal is to tease the hairs so that they can starting moving around again.”
So you've just dry brushed and some of you have even dry erased. Hopefully at this point the follicles are moving freely again. If that's the case, it's time do some wet brushing. Contrary to what a lot of people say, suede can actually get wet, and it's the only way you can remove heavier stains. However, you need to approach this step with caution, as newer shoes have a higher chance of dye bleed, and surrounding light-coloured materials can draw the dye out.
“Get your soft brush and dip it into water, shake off any excess, and begin the process,” says Tao. “Let the brush do the work. Note that the suede will darken as it gets wet. This will dry out to the original colour so don't panic. Don't apply water directly to the suede. Instead, dip your brush and then apply it to your shoes. Shake a few drop of cleaning solution onto the brush and work it into a lather. I'd recommend ones that don't contain aerosols or harmful chemicals.”
All done? Good for you! Once the suede been cleaned, remove any excess water and foam with a microfibre cloth. Pat your shoes dry and let them sit in a well-ventilated area. While you might be tempted to fire a hair dryer at them or place them directly on top of a radiator, please don't.
“There are glues that hold shoes together and other thermoplastics that react to heat, so avoid any direct heat sources,” says Tao. “Once dry, the colour may seem a bit off, but don't worry. These are just the tiny hairs getting used to their new condition. Get your dry brush and give them a once-over to reset them. Again, do this in a slow, circular motion.”
If you're feeling like Picasso and you're happy with all of your work so far, spray some suede protector onto your shoes. Obviously, this isn't a magical force field, but it will offer a layer of protection and will keep them pretty safe.
“Apply some natural protection to your shoes,” says Tao. “Again, I would avoid aerosols. Spray at least two feet away and coat it evenly. This won't fully prevent staining, but it'll makes things easier to clean next time.”
“Think of cleaning as a reductive process,” says Tao. “You're trying to subtract stains from the shoe. Less is always more! I've seen so many people mess up big time by following random tutorials on Instagram and TikTok. You wouldn't use things like baking soda, bicarbonate soda, or bleach on your skin, would you? So don't use it on your suede shoes.”
Wood Shoe Horn Also, if you have a pair of suede shoes, you should probably try and wear 'em out more. The more you wear them, the more the dye has time to set in, which makes cleaning a lot easier. Always store them in well ventilated areas and not in complete darkness or near a direct heat source. Mould breeds in dark warm areas, and that's the last thing your £2,000 John Lobbs need.